Knocking on heavens door

The ride up the mountains from Udipi was great, all the way to Madikere, twisting and turning, cool climate - coffee bushes, rubber trees, cocoa trees and pepper vines everywhere ---- and --- Joes bike didnt shed any bits or breakdown, hooray! Instead it was mine, the trusty silver machine that let us down. It wasnt bad tho, just the chain guard snapping off. This was on a bad section of road that had us leaping around all over the place.We reached Madikere early [no major problems today] so we carried on to Sera, at Kushalnagar which is a huge Tibetan refugee colony. This has been going for a lot of years now and they are farming successfully, and have small carpet factories, incence factories etc. They also have really good guest houses and lots of temples, we have been going there for 15 years, for a chill out and re-charge of the mental batteries. When we arrived we were told that it would be impossible to stay wihout a special permit [this doesnt cost anything but you have to get it in advance and it takes 3 months]Everyone was very sorry but the local cheif of police is giving all the Tibetans loads of grief. You arent even aallowed to visit the area, let alone stay.Obviosly we didnt want to get anyone into trouble so we left, down hearted and angry. Its only jealousy which has broughtbthis about, the Tibetans are very good at whatever they do, and being very genuine and kindhearted people, love to share their life and culture with anyone who is interested. We have encontered lots of institutional racism in India but this is without doubt the worst.Native Indians , dont have to have a permit of course.
So we have to stay in a shitty overpriced lodge in town-- these guys really know how to shoot themselves in the foot, - if you could stay with the Tibetans, you would be staying longer and contributing more to the local economy. Now everyone will only stay one night and get pissed off and leave-- a great case of short-termism.
Up and off the next morning [early - no one slept very well!] and onto Mysore. The road was good and bad. The whole road was terrible last year and theyve made great improvements. Unfortunately the new bits are falling apart before the rest is done! We did get some great video of the 3 bikes abreast with no other traffic- great stuff.
Reached Mysore by 11am, booked into our hotel, showered and went to the Ritz for lunch. Joe arrived with silver Bob, and Edd, Julie Moll turned up as well - ahh a good day.
Spent a few days overeating oh yes I got busted for no crash helmet and got fined 100 rupees. The cops were real friendly and Joe photographed the cops and me, holding up my fine papers!
Joe decided to leave us at this point, we are going south into the bigger mountains and he doesnt have any confidence at all in the bike - and we cant blame him. So we arrange to get the bike on a train most of the way back. This goes all wrong at the last minute, and we decide to accompany Joe back to the coast, where , if he breaks down again he can stick it on a truck heading north. The ride back was wonderfull, covering distance in record time and enjoying a great twisty moutain section as well. We said our farewells at Moodabidri, Joe heading for Gokarn, and us for Calicut. We didnt make it , but the road we took was stunning- - no traffic and twisting up and down the mountains for 60km- over the border into Kerala wihout noticing except for the roads got even better!
We then reached the coast road and it all jammed up. Loads of mad Keralan bus drivers forcing us off the road. Hence we only made it as far as Kannur. Struck lucky and found a beautifull old Raj house turned into an hotel--real pukka stuff this! We went down to check out the beach at sunset and found a full - on trance party starting up! It must have been for the full moon. Didnt stay long but we did meet the present incumbent of Beaver castle in Leicestershire--never know who youre going to bump into out here !
Now having an overnight stop inMamalpuram before heading up them mountains again, yeah-- bring it on!!
Will try to upload some photos when we settle.