Thursday, 28 December 2006

Thursday, 21 December 2006

Exiting Hyderabad

It has just taken me 35 minutes to get to this stage! the connection speed here is unbelieveable!!
Anyway, exiting Hyderabad was a busy old job. We rose early[ again ] because we expected traffic to be heavy.It took one hour and 25 km to get out.When we actally hit the road it was plain sailing but finding the right one was exhausting. Stopped for breakfast, sat down and broke a chair- much to the amusement of the staff. They then stacked 2 chairs together and reconed that would be o.k
People over here keep telling me I have a great personality- obviosly getting confused with phsique- which is also strange as Im really overweight and fat- anyway this always causes much laughter when it occurs-specially when I break chairs!
The ride to Raichur was a good one and we did about 250km till we hit town. The approach was terrible -potholes a foot and a half deep and loads of them. Unfortunately I knocked an old boy off his bike as negotiated one of them - I was committed to my route around the rim of this big hole and he just kept coming . It all happened at slow speed so no damage done-- he stood there swearing at me as we rode off-we didnt bother to stop - its policy over here. The hotel was great, right next to the fort with great views. The room was really clean, great bathroom, T.V. and the coldest beers yet.They even had flute music to wake you in the morning.
Early start the next day again - riding on absolutely beautifull flat smooth roads with the morning mist slowly burning off the fields. Heading towards Gangavatti[ what a beautifull name ] The air was full of the smell of fresh rice straw as the harvest was well under way, huge piles of paddy waiting on the side of the road waiting to be collected. The roads remained good untill about 30 km from Hampi, where we are now.We approached Hampi from the east which is a completely different direction from our usual way . We climbed the huge rock strewn hills and saw Hampi from above, surrounded in deep green bannana plantations. Hampi is an ancient city, now only populated by a few people, but it used to house 3 million ,and was the centre of an ancient empire. The main temple is still in use and gets visited by thousands of pilgrims. The rest of the area [ and it covers miles ] is full of deserted temples, palaces, bathing tanks, irrigation systems, bazaars and other amazing sights. It is one of our favourite places in India, its very Holy, very chilled out and very hot. We had a bhang lassi yesterday to celebrate the winter solstice and watched the sun set over the rocky hills turning everything an orange glow.
We are here till the 26th when we leave for Goa, I shall try to load up some photos of this magical place but Im sure its going to be impossible, what with the internet connection.Helens leg has now fully healed -thanks to the magic of lavender oil. Thats less than a fortnight - it was a real blistered up burn as well, glad thats all over.
Weve heard of a bear sanctuary a few kilometres up the road, we shall go and check it out, as weve only seen them being abused as dancing bears before and not seen them in their natural habitat.
Oh! we went to see DHOOM 2 in Hyderabad - its the latest bollywood blockbuster - and it was great. Good story, great chase scenes -lots of motorbike stunts, and some banging tunes. The title tune is being played everywhere and will stick in our brains for a long time.

Saturday, 16 December 2006

Food

Got to tell you about the food. Well lets start with - its delicious. Andrha food is highly spicey with chillies in everything- the amount of chilli varies from dish to dish. Hyderabad is the home of biriyani, and last night we had the best biriyani ever. To start with it was huge, which always pleases me, full of chicken and it came with a delicious curry sauce and a chilli buttermilk. The rotis were twice the size of normal ones - all this for85 pence!
Breakfast this morning was puris with curry, with the best pickles and local coffee. The flavours are truly amazing, everything tasting really fresh. We"ve loved Andrha food for a long time and always try to find it when travelling in different areas. The bikes arent expected back till Tuesday p.m. so we have a chance to sample more of the delights of this great city.
Our route out is going to be very rural. We are abandoning the highways and going for the smaller country roads. Here and in Karnataka - the next state, the roads are good more or less all over so we dont have to be picky about where we go. Raichur is the next stop after here - it has a huge fort on the top of a rocky hill which dominates the landscape. This whole area is full of forts- this is where the Mughals held out against the Hindu Vijayaganar empire. They were at war for hundreds of years and there are deserted temples, forts and palaces dotted about everywhere. Its a great area to travel, with no one else doing it - probably because its not mentioned in the Lonely Bastard.[hooray!]
Joe is trying to sort out the photo loading - this cyber cafe is not as whizz as we first thought- its only laid out for surfing, and shrinking digital images - and dongling[?] is not easy.

Phew! what a blast!

Down from Chhindwara was a real blast , we saw 2 more of those trees again, took a photo this time, not that anyone is possibly going to recognize it.As we got to the border with the south the first thing we saw was a palm tree! Ahh the beautifull south. Nagpur unfortunately was having some sort of political rally, the police were busy barricading roads off, and all the hotels were full. This was bad as we were really whacked but there was nothing else for it but to carry on. We couldnt have got the work done on the bikes anyway, with half the place closed down. So, on to Hinganghat - a no hope town deep in hicksville. Got a room in a lodge[a cheap version of a hotel] It was grubby and sordid and Helen didnt love me anymore, but we had done 204km of rough riding and we were done in. Went out to dinner and got harangued by kids, the waiters at the restaurant had to go out to guard the bikes as we ate -life on the road eh?
So good bye to Maharastra and on to Andrha Pradesh - a lovely southern state, heading to Nizamabad. Joes speedo cable broke as we left, so I was the only one to keep track of the milage[or kilometrage] The roads improved dramatically, fewer potholes, wider surfaces and less traffic. The potholes were beginning to piss me off- the concentration involved is intense. You have to plan your route around them whilst avoiding all other traffic [and each other] Convention has it , you drive on the left, but actually anything goes, left right, middle -- you can even do a Uey on a dual carriageway! Joes throttle cable broke as we arrived in Nizamabad -curses! To cap it all our Hotel was fully booked by a wedding party - its marriage season at the moment- people getting wed everywhere. Found another place but it was grubby again but we had done 271 km and needed to fix Joes bike again - we checked in, did laundry, feasted really well and managed to down a few cold beers. We went to work on Joes throttle- filing away the inside cable guide, which can be the only thing causing the problem.
Had an extra day doing nothing and resting our bums - tried to e-mail etc but it was a joke -first no server connection , then the power went off!!
We are now in Hyderabad, the state capital, in the bestest, fastest, coolest internet cafe in India! It was a great days riding today. Again great roads, but arriving in a city this big at lunchtime on a Saturday was a big mistake. Having said this we didnt get lost coming in, found our chosen hotel, and managed to get the bikes in for their next service. Its a proper Royal Enfield service agent so we are getting everything sorted. Now they are run-= in we can really blast it, thats if the roads let us! Going to take advantage of this super-fast connection tommorrow and post some photos.

Tuesday, 12 December 2006

Up to Chhindwara.

Got up to a nice early morning start. It was still misty when we left, with the sun just breaking thru. Its still cold in the night/early morning but it doesnt take long to warm up if youre in the sun.Our ride started in forest tho. The road was actually good for a change, but only single track, winding up thru the forest. The road was blocked to all but motorbikes after 4 km, with tons of rock barring the way. This meant we had the road virtually to ourselves and could revel in throwing the bikes into bends and accellerating up the climbs. The air was for once free of pollution and it was all quite exhillerating. We saw he weirdest tree ever - it was silver white in colour, with a green tinge with no leaves - and it glowed in the forest.There was not a straight branch on it and the trunk was knobbly and curvey. We saw 3 of these altogether - hopefully they are on video, but we have to charge up the camcorder to find out.Theres only one socket in every Indian hotel room - and we have a waiting list for things to charge and plug in .
The ride up for 60 km was blissfull and a real charge- good to be doing some real biking.
After 60km things got bad again - the road disintegrated - then returned then disintergrated again.Its very tiring and physically hard work trying to keep the bike upright and moving forward at a sustainable pace. On one section the potholes were so bad that my hand jumped off the grip and knocked the killswitch without my knowledge -as we were going downhill I just coasted for about 8km till I reached a standstill. Cursing I dismounted and got the tools out and removed the points cover and looked inside - it was then Joe informed me that I was a prat and should check things. Enough said!
Joes throttle cable broke 20km out of town and we wrapped it around his hand and he then tensioned it over his thigh and lifted his leg to accellerate. Did this for 10km then managed to get a replacement. We tried a couple of hotels before we ended up in the Surya- its a dive but it has fresh paint and decent chai. Its the worst place weve had to stay in yet - but we do have fresh sheets!
To Nagpur tomorrow - this means that politically we leave the north of India, as we enter Maharastra, but culturally its still the north. What I remember about Maharastra from last year is that every village on the road has huge sleeping policemen which can launch you dangerously into the air if youre not carefull.
We should stop in Nagpur for a day or two, as we have laundry to do, and Joes bike has an elusive electrical fault which I cant place , so we need an authorised dealer.
Weve covered 1000km now, and the trip has a momentum of its own. The bikes are having a hard time of it-but we"re enjoying the fixing and tinkering and we are re-learning things weve forgotten.
Thinking of food now- and a cold beer would be nice!.

Monday, 11 December 2006

What road?


Dont play chicken with my boy


Onward to Narshimapur

The road to Narshimapur is a long and hard one. We took the jungle route out of Orchha - which started out ok. then the road dissapeared, becoming a ribbon of tarmac connecting the pot holes.I had a severe dose of the squits so I really didnt want to leave the saddle too often, but we spent a lot of time airbourne. The distance on the map didnt correspond to the road signs and we ended up doing 220km on terrible roads sometimes it was like riding on
corrugated iron. We did ride thru 2 great parades, the 1st one having 3 elephants draped in mirrored clothes and gold headdresses , lots of geezers dressed in gold looking like Rama[?]
The roads had hammered the steering, so after arrival at Sagar we found a mechanic and had it all tightened up again. The food at the hotel was outstanding and we had a real pig out- and they had beer,-cold-cold beer..
Early start and on to Narshimapur. got out of the city easily but the road was again painfull, lots to see, palaces ,forts[ the road even went thru one fort ] beautifull water tanks with red lotus flowers and buffalo bobbing about.
At a chai stop Helen got off the bike and reversed onto Joes exhaust- resulting in a Goa tattoo[ a serious burn- usually attained by tourists in Goa.] This now means Joe has to carry our saddle bags as they rub the burn. We are treating the burn with lavender oil, which is the best, but we are going to have to search for non stick dressings and micro pore.
On arrival at Narshimapur, we had to find a mechanic again as I had developed a grating noise from the back brake. This was an oversized bearing hub, heating up and grating.
This is where Thugs originated-thuggees in the old days. They used to waylay travellers and strangle them with knotted yellow silk scarves that is untill us Brits sorted them out! We apparently hung loads of em, they seem o.k. nowadays tho and not a yellow scarf in sight!

Friday, 8 December 2006

Hooray, not a drummer


Ahh, yogi tea


Also down by the river


Bike washing


Orchha, by the river


Orchha

Guess what, after the internet cafe last night --- I got another puncture!! Thats 3 days riding and 3 punctures[Joe keeps sniggering - his time will come Im sure]. Got it mended this morning and cruised around some palaces, took a ride in the forest-which was really peacefull and cool, with no traffic and we found another palace! Had tea with Sadus, washed the bikes in the holy river, just around the bend where they cremate people.We were surrounded by temples and Chattris, [mausoleums] really chilled atmosphere. Taken loads of photos[ havnt got a clue if theres a limit to how much we can load up onto the page] Try and load some next. Tomorrow is some sort of mela[festival] loads of pretty women walking into the village singing songs- perhaps we-ll stay another day

A great view from up here

View at breakfast

Gwalior fort

Thursday, 7 December 2006

Gwalior fort

Ouch!!

Jeez, getting out of Agra took 2 hours - everyone gave us their own favorite route out and we ended up going around in circles.. The oil leaks we thought we had fixed were worse and Joes clutch started slipping -not good in city traffic. The landscape wa spretty flat- a bit like Norflok - they were even growing rape seed. We crossed from Uttar Pradesh into Rajasthan then into Madhya Pradesh towards Gwalior. The scenery changed quite dramatically - to sandy hills erroded by wind and rain to make weird shapes, it was quite surreal. I managed 100km without one, then disaster struck - another puncture! This took place on the outskirts of Gwalior in a flood where a water main had burst. It didnt take long to fix - they dont remove the wheel they just pull out the tube from the side. Joes clutch gave up at the same time, - so whilst the puncture was being fixed, I set to work on the clutch - managed to bodge it ok. Re mounted the bikes and hit wet raiway lines in the flood at an obscure angle and I dropped the bike. Luckily we werent going fast , we couldnt get out from under the bike tho and loads of locals came to lift it off us.Wet dirty and hurting a little we continued for another 2 km when the bike spluttered to a stop again. All the shit in the fuel tank had re- located to the carburettor when the bike was on its side. So strip the carb on the side of the road - surrounded by lots of armchair experts. Hooray success! Onward into the city and desperately looking for an hotel, noticed an Enfield workshop on the way in -found a place to stay Hotel Mascot [v.nice] and took the bikes to the menders --- new clutc for Joe, with oilchange, filter and general service and attempt to stop the oil leaks. Same for me- minus the clutch. My Tappet cover was warped and so not sealing thus pissing oil over my boot. [and Helens] Joes clutch was stuffed. New gaskets all round and a bit of T.L.C. and all ok again. Gwalior fort is a real honey- how do they do all that work? Its amazing . Lots of intricate stone work overlaid with Turquoise- far out!
We are now in a place called Orcha which is an area covered in deserted palaces and temples- all in really good condition - will try and show you some photos tomorrow. Todays journey reasonably uneventfull- great scenery - they really go in for temples and palaces in a big way around here.

Monday, 4 December 2006




the bikes


Delhi to Agra

Yes! the first days riding under our belt. A great day -we did leave at just after 5 am. it was really cold, after 30 minutes we were shaking. We are going to post some photos today if possible - you never can tell over here whether itll work or not. Joes bike is the red one and ours the black, Every time I look at Joe he is wearing a huge grin - he has an exhaust system to rattle your teeth and he loves it!True to form I got a puncture on the 1st day - this one holds the record tho -- 77km![and it was 2 punctures] After 20 km , my bike coughed itself to a stop- luckily we were not in heavy traffic and we could both pull over together. It turned out to be an incorrectly adjusted carburettor- I sorted this out myself and fitted a new plug and everything was fine. We have a few oil leaks to sort out but nothing serious- think Ive sorted mine. I also had all manner of shit in the fuel filter which I have now cleaned.
In all the time of travelling these roads Ive never seen so many dead and rotting carcases in one day - 2 deer, a huge cat, many dogs - one comically inflated like a baloon and ready to burst[ dont want to be around when that happens!] The traffic was predictably mannic, some places worst than others- Mathura [birthplace of Lord Krishna] was totally mad, then we had a bit of a break untill we hit Agra at lunchtime which was utterly mad, Joe did really well to keep up -its shit trying to keep together in heavy city traffic, 6 lanes of utter anarchy, the heat and no local knowledge . We only used the wakie talkies when I got the punctures and had to leave the others with the luggage. This was great as none of the indians had ever seen one before and I was surrounded at the puncture wallas by schoolkids and neredowells. We are now at the Shanti guest hose in Agra which has a great view of the Taj Mahal. Dont know if we will get a photo of the Taj with bikes as we probably will be leaving for Gwalior in the morning- Once you start riding - you cant stop, its brilliant.

Sunday, 3 December 2006

Were here

Well, we cant believe how easy this has been. After arriving at 5 am we checked in to our hotel, then out for breakfast, Bulletwallas shop was open on the way back so we popped in and bought 2 Royal enfield bullets. Yep it was as easy as that. All the paperwork done, extras added to the bikes and everythig sorted. The bikes are pre-loved but totally re-built, all moving parts repaced with new-all engine cases highly polished and paintwork gleaming. We leave Delhi at 5am tomorrow- we are leaving so early because we dont have a clue how to get out of the city and at 5 there will be less traffic.
Delhi is much the same as it has always been, busy noisy and polluted but we love the place.In the taxi from the airport, the drver wound down his window and spat, he missed the opening and gob sprayed the inside of the taxi-- well weve arrived then !! Then we nearly collided with a car and pusbike and continued to drive like a nutter all the way. We love it!
We have taken photos of the bikes but Ive bought the wrong leads to the internet cafe so I cant post them yet, we will try to get a shot of the bikes with the Taj Mahal in the background at our next stop -Agra.